Shalom everybody! Boker tov! (This is how you say hello in Hebrew)
It's my last full day in Israel and the Shabbat has closed down most of the city of Tel Aviv-Yafo, so I thought I would finally get around to writing up a message on the blog.
I've been in Israel for two weeks and within that time have travelled deep into the Negev desert to see palatial ruins, explore cave systems and float on water in The Dead Sea; I've bussed it up north to Rosh HaNikra (on the border with Lebanon) to walk the shores of the northern coast; spent two fantastic days in Jerusalem, visting the church of the Holy Sepulchre (where Golgotha and the burial place of Jesus is believed to be), walked the Via Dolorosa, explored the Jewish, Christian, Armenian Quarters, climed Mt of Olives, sat in the Garden of Gethsemane and even said a few prayers at the wailing wall. I've been to Caesarea (pronounced kay-sarea), Nazareth, Qumran, Haifa and the Galilee. This list can and does go on!
Israel is such a fascinating place. Its so beautifully diverse. You are always a one hours drive away from either stunning views of the Med, scorching desert heat and sand dunes, holy sites galore or buzzing, cosmopolitan cities. One afternoon, we drove down towards Masada and within the space of ten minutes we had descended 1200 m, we were officially at the lowest place on earth - 411m below sea level. As you can imagine, it was incredibly hot.
For the past 4 days I've been staying in this fantastic Turkish guest house in the old fishing port village of Jaffa. Yes, Jaffa Oranges and the Jaffa Cake do originate from here. They are very proud of this fact. The guest house is brilliant, there is old arabian furniture dotted all around the place, sepia family photographs line the walls, and most brilliantly of all, the kitchen and communal area is on the roof! Every morning I wake to see a rather bohemian, elderly woman, dressed in her night gown, cigarette in one hand and tape recorder in the other, dancing away as if there is no tomorrow. Her particular favourite is the twist and shake, which she does with relative ease for her age! Must be all the olives and hummas they eat here! The dorms are large and airy and the facilities here are great. For 13 pounds a night, you cannot complain!
I must mention the Jerusalem bombing on the 23rd March. In Tel Aviv, it was almost as if nothing had happend. I only happened to come upon the news when I turned the tv on in the hostel. I can remember watching the frantic scenes on the screen and trying desperately to pick out any Hebrew words I knew in an attempt to figure out what I was seeing. A man had left a suspicious package at a bus stop and detonated it just as a bus was pulling in to collect passengers. One woman died and several more were critically injured. It was thought that this was either a follow up to the missiles that had been lauched over from Gaza a few days before I had arrived, or in retaliation. Unfortunately, you probably know more back home in England than I know here. Most publications are in Hebrew and access to internet on the whole has been scarce/expensive. My thoughts and prayers go to everyone affected by the bombing.
I've crossed the border twice into Palestine, once to visit Bethlehem and the Church of the Nativity, and the second time to explore Jericho (the oldest city in the world). Crossing the check points is not a nice experience. Because I was in a group of people in a guided tour, we were allowed through with relative ease. Our bags were searched (a pretty standard practice here - security guards are everywhere, entrance to shops, bars, bus stations etc) and we all walked through metal detectors and that was it, we were through to Palestine. On the other side of the check point was a rather large queue of Palestinians waiting to come through - and the guards were carrying on as if they weren't there, not even attempting to process their documents or allow them through. They were just waiting. I was told by my tour guide that it just 'takes as long as it takes'. The wall is pretty foul. It runs like a scar throughout the country, seperating, dividing and segregating families, homes and friends. I've had the pleasure of meeting some wonderful Palestinian and Israeli families while i've been here and they all speak of the day when the wall will come down. Haya, my tour guide speaks of it as the 'Berlin Wall Day'. I always thought the wall was there to keep the Palestinians out of Israel. But I was wrong. Palestinians can obtain work visas and earn a living in Israel. Its the other way round. The wall prevents Israeli's from entering Palestinian owned territory. They are simply not allowed. I was told by one Palestinian gentleman that 'Palestine does not recognise the existence of Israel' and that it would be unsafe for them to enter Palestinian territories. Its very difficult to understand the political situation here and I am by no means an expert on what has and still is going on here. I feel like I am learning more and more every day. Being here has brought everything I've learnt at University to life. To be able to walk the streets and explore these places myself has been a real pleasure, and I will most definately come back here one day.
A few nights ago I went to the theatre. I went to see a show called 'Momentum', performed by the Mayumana company. It's billed as the Israeli version of 'Stomp'. Well, it was incredible. Big drums, amazing music, visuals and light displays, acrobatics, break dancing, singing, audience participation...It was brilliant! Most of the show was in Hebrew but I pretty much understood everything that was happening. Hey if you're ever in Jaffa - this show is a must!
Tomorrow I start my journey towards Thailand. In total it'll take three days. First stop will be Jordan, then Bahrain and then finally Bangkok on the 5th April. I'll be staying with my uncle and cousins for a few days. It'll be great to see some friendly, familiar faces.
Thanks again for taking the time to read the blog and i'll update it when I get to Asia!
Lots of love. T xxx
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